The American translation of this Welsh phrase is ‘thank you very much’ Cedar City. I stumbled into Cedar City on my English bicycle full of life, having made it from Wickenburg in Arizona. The route used was the American Cycling Associations Grand Canyon Connector which links in Cedar City with several legendary bicycle routes which cross North America…………………..
I am a grey bearded Welshman from the UK on a mission to bicycle down and across North America before I die, or die doing it. I do this once a year in 4 week sessions. I am 3000 miles into this journey, previously I have cycled the West Coast route from Vancouver to the Mexican boarder near San Diego and then across to Wickenburg in Arizona. The Grand Canyon Connector Route connects the Southern and the Central routes across America - these routes meet at Cedar City.
The final day (9/29/2010) of this ride was from Cedar Breaks National Monument, downhill all the way to Cedar City surrounded by breathtaking scenery. I must admit that I was shouting for joy as I descended into more oxygen. This is the longest downhill route I have ever experienced and the contrast with the uphill route from Panguitch is stunning. You Americans are the chosen people, having such easy access to these wonderful wilderness areas.
Photo: Bryce Canyon in fall
When I left Wickenburg in early September at the start of this ride, the temperature was hovering around 110. I was trying to acclimatise to this heat by cycling around Wickenburg where I was followed by an ambulance -either they thought I was mentally unbalanced or just about to suffer from heat stroke. They say that only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun ! When I arrived at Cedar Breaks National Monument some four weeks later, snow was forecast and I found the campground was closed for the season. This was a serious situation for me as I was exhausted by the climb to 10500 feet (the highest mountain in Wales is only 3600 feet). Fortunately I experienced the professionalism of the National Park service through their representative Ranger Nancy. She made the appropriate phone calls and I was allowed to camp. An empty campground is an eerie place but company was provided by elk, making their distinctive bugling call. This lonesome night contrasted markedly with camping at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon which I consider to be the best campground in the world.
Photo: Campground North Rim Grand Canyon
Many days cycling alone may be good for the soul but I prefer the company of others. I met about 30 cyclists at the North Rim campground, a positive feast of stories and experiences were exchanged. Notable in the group were a quintessentially eccentric upper class English couple, who were cycling across America. Their campfire chat concerned their decision as to where in the world to spend two months cycling each year - as Michael is a magician they go to wherever the Annual World Magician convention is held, so it’s China for them next time. My camp fire story related to my experience of a small supermarket on the way to the South Rim, where I met the owner and talked to him about what I was doing. He told me he would love to be able to take part in a big adventure like this, but the pressure of owning a business prevented him. This generous man then did an amazing thing, he told me to take whatever I needed for my journey from his store, for free.
The most interesting person around the camp fire that night was Jack D. Pettry, same age as me. Jack was leading an Adventure Cycling Association Trip. He came across as an extremely modest man, one of his group revealed that Jack had run a marathon in every state of the US, and will be leading the Trans Am this year. To me, Jack represents the best of the American spirit for adventure. He wants you to enjoy yourself because that has the effect on him of enjoying himself more. Jack is helping me with planning the next stage of my journey in September, from Cedar City to Pueblo in Colorado (see map)
When you cycle alone, arriving at a large town such as Cedar City can be lonely and demoralising. Luckily there was loads of accommodation at that time of year (late Sept) I went to the tourism bureau and had a long uplifting conversation with an elderly volunteer (about my age) full of joy and wit, I then met Bonny Char of Brian Head Tourism who showed tremendous enthusiasm for my project and has kept contact with me. She has branded me as BioMan, a reference to my profession as a Biologist and my love of Natural History. Meanwhile, my wife Lorraine in the UK, had e-mailed self storage businesses in Cedar City, she had an immediate reply from David at Cedar City Storage Rentals. I don’t think I have ever come across such a friendly and efficiently run family business as this. Their generosity of spirit made me feel I was a temporary member of their family - see photograph.
Photo: Tomi Alger, David Crowther, Pam Crowther of Cedar Storage Rentals & Bio Man Tony Morgan
I have absolute confidence that my bike and bike luggage will be there when I return on August 26th 2010 to prepare for the next stage when I cycle to Pueblo in Colorado.
The friendliness of the Americans that I have met along these 3000 miles has meant a lot to me, and I thank you all, but I also love the isolation of the American wilderness and wish I could describe it in the way that your famous author Edward Abbey does in ‘Desert Solitaire’ .
APPENDIX
1. WHO
Tony Morgan, retired biologist (re-named by Bonnie Char Bio-Man) age 63 years.
Contact: ‘Moorabbin’ Abercegir Machynlleth Powys SY20 8NR Wales UK
Tel. UK (0)I650 511652
Email: darwinsdeckchair@hotmail.co.uk
2. WHY
Below is an attempt to explain my philosophy of cycling. When I am cycling I feel like I am in the environment. Whereas in a car I feel that I am passing through on the way to somewhere. Perhaps another way of putting this is that I feel like I am in the here and now as opposed to thinking about doing something in the future.
I carry full camping equipment when I cycle long distance in America This gives me the freedom to camp anywhere. My greatest interest is natural history and its preservation. Therefore when I am cycling in a beautiful wilderness area in America I have arrived, this is it. A person feeling good about life makes contact with many different people which further enriches the adventure and sense of well being. To me the Northern Americans are the chosen people. They have massive wilderness areas which are protected but have outstanding facilities for those who wish to camp. It seems that hiker/bikers are never turned away if the camp ground is full reassuring after a long day cycling. Of course you can book ahead, but often you do not achieve your daily objective . I live in Wales which has the land area comparable to that of Big Bend National Park in Texas! Our National Parks are in beautiful areas but we have no wilderness and people live and work within the boundaries of our parks.
I have come to the conclusion that I am a simple soul who likes linear adventure, knowing what I wish to achieve in advance and working on the detail before travelling. The sense of achievement is enormous and replaces the satisfaction I found in work. I think that this activity helps to keep you healthy for longer, as I have to train continuously throughout the year.
It also helps in avoiding the couch potato status, slumped in front of the TV searching for a meaning. What I like about growing old is that the body slows down and as a consequence you are forced into smelling the roses along the way.
3. WHERE
Adventure Cycling Association Routes. www.adventurecycling.org
4. HOW
Bike & equipment - please email for details if you wish
